Sunday, 17 June 2018

Swapping the 10AS immobiliser

As mentioned in a previous post I wanted to maintain factory features and factory look and feel but add central door locking to our Defender, called Fender.

To this end I have swapped the Lucas 10AS immobiliser for one that has central door locking (CDL.) This is not easy because Land Rover, sensibly, fitted this is an very awkward to get to location behind the dash binnacle.

I have used a Discovery Lucas 10AS immobiliser, which has CDL, to replace the Defender variant, which does not. By doing that I keep the standard Land Rover style 2 button key fobs (plips) and I am able to enable the same immobiliser features exactly as factory fitted.

I used a Nanocom to setup the 10AS, as noted in a previous article.

To get to the 10AS in Fender I removed the dash binnacle, disconnected the odometer cable and put it to one side. I'm not happy with it dangling supported by the wiring harness but I have been unable to find a better way to get it out of the way!

I also removed the small switch pod, which houses the hazard and fog light switches and the speaker below that. With all that removed I had visibility and access to pull the cables from the bottom of the 10AS.

The 10AS is bolted to the bulkhead above the steering column. There are green and grey connectors on the lower side. Each of those has a fairly easy to depress latch in the centre of the connector, facing the steering wheel. Pressing that in and pulling, with a bit of wiggle, and the connector comes out easily. The grey one is a little more difficult because it is immediately above the steering column but there is just enough gap to get the connector out and back in again.

Once disconnected I pulled both the connectors through the speaker hole.

To add CDL, I needed to connect two wires to the green connector and one wire to the grey connector.  Pins, 2 and 3 on the green connector and pin 7 on the grey connector. I bought the two different size pins from RS components.
I've already written a post detailing the connectors and pins I've used.

I wired up a short harness in the shed before starting work in the car. I decided it was easier to have a set of joints under the bonnet rather than trying to run the wires all the way to the doors in one long run. I used the wires from the Hawk CDL kit that I had bought off of e-bay. I maintained the Hawk colour coding for ease of installation. A blue and green wire, each with the larger pin to fit the green connector. A brown wire with the smaller pin to fit the middle of the grey connector.

To push the pins in to the existing connectors it is necessary to open up the connector housings. The green connector has 4 tiny plastic latches on the rear upper part of the housing. One latch at each end and another two either side of the main finger latch. A bit of poking with a screwdriver and some force got that upper part open.

The grey connector is easier, it just has two plastic latches, one either end.

Making sure the pins were the right way up, they just push in until you can hear the click of the plastic internal lock engaging with the pin. A small screwdriver sometimes helps if the wire is a tight fit.

Once I was sure the wires were in the right place I reassembled the connectors and taped the new wires to the outside of the existing cable bundles.

At this point I plugged in the replacement 10AS and attached a door solenoid, temporarily to the cables while I tested. I locked and unlocked the car, with the solenoid following as it should and I started the engine. This do not all work first time. I don't know why but it took a couple of locks and unlocks with each plip until the hazard lights followed as I had configured. It was unexpected but without making further changes, the reactions from the car settled down to what I had intended.

I removed the temporary setup before continuing.

Now for the tricky bit. Getting the previous 10AS out and the desired one in its place!

With a long number 2 pozidrive screwdriver one of the two bolts can be reached easily through the hazard switch hole.

The tricky bolt is to the left of the module. Everything is in the way. I managed to make up an extended 1/4" socket contraption with a PZ#2 bit on the end, that just reached and had enough movement to undo the bolt. Luckily neither bolt was very tight.

With the bolts removed the module can be slid to the right and removed through the speaker hole.

My replacement module had broken mounting tabs so I had the extra task of opening up the module, swapping over the internals and putting the replacement lid on the lower section of the original case. That way I got the correct stickers on the module but now with intact mounting wings. I'll be back to those in a moment.

The module goes back in the same way the old one came out. The wiring harnesses need to be pulled out the way and it took a bit of fiddling to get the unit back in place without trapping any cables. The good thing is that those cables conveniently hold the module roughly in place.

Despite the module being held up by the cables, I struggled to get the left hand bolt in to the hole with the limited space that is there.

My solution was to cut the left hand mounting hole in to an open slot and put the bolt with washer in the car first. That worked very well and made the job a whole lot easier. The right hand bolt is easy to fit and needs no such modification.

I deliberately did not over tighten the bolts.

I then ran the short harness through the bulkhead and temporarily secured along the back of the bulkhead under the bonnet.

I plugged all the connectors back in but before putting the dash back together I did a further test with a temporary solenoid hooked up. At this point, while I remembered, I swapped the remote key fobs on each set of keys and put the previous ones with the previous 10AS.

All back together, remembering to connect the odometer at the appropriate point in the reassembly.

More test engine starts, with the immobiliser activated and deactivated to ensure that everything is working as it should. The last job was to put the battery on charge to top it up after all the cranking without any movement.

Now I am ready to move on to the next stage of fitting the central door locking.


Related articles:


Monday, 11 June 2018

Lawnmower fuel leak

Shelley noticed a slight change in colour to the plastic on one of her mowers. It looked like a little fuel was running down from the carburettor.

I could not see anything obvious but gave it a partial service. I cleaned the spark plug, set the gap to 0.5mm and cleaned the air filter. I also sharpened and replaced the blade.

The air filter is an oil soaked foam. As per the service manual, I just washed it thoroughly in washing up liquid, dried it and bathed it in a little clean engine oil.

In the process of removing the air filter I noticed that fuel was present inside the filter housing, where it probably should not be. I removed that housing to reveal a gasket. I believe it is that gasket that might be leaking.

I didn't have a spare, so I cleaned and refitted it for now but made sure the screws were tight. I've ordered a spare gasket.

With the mower back together it ran a lot better.

Ready for the working day.


Sunday, 10 June 2018

Rayleigh Town Trinity Fair

We popped in to Rayleigh to support Dean and Claire who had a stand at this, now, annual, event.

There were old cars, some Star Wars stormtroopers, quite a few stands selling bits and food.

Parking was a bit tricky, all the main car parks were full and we had to walk from a side street that we managed to find a space in.

The event was very busy.


Replacing the filler cap lock

I like all the keys for a car to match, including the fuel filler cap if it has a lock.

It is possible to buy a set of matching locks for a Land Rover Defender when you buy a new ignition barrel. I have not seen a way to change the ignition barrel lock, so the starting point has to be the whole ignition. I deliberately bought a kit with one more barrel than I had doors. That last one being for the fuel filler cap.

To fit a new lock barrel in the filler cap it is necessary to take the lock apart and drill a small hole to gain access to push the brass plunger that holds the existing barrel in place.

This was surprisingly easy and the whole job only took 20 minutes.

It probably does not matter but I marked the components as I went so I knew which way round they went back together.

To get the large rubber seal out I prised it from the edge with a screwdriver. This slightly bent the metal backing but it was very easy to flatten out.

Once apart, I offered up the new lock to find the exact point that the plunger was located.

I drilled a 2mm hole and used the same drill to push down on the existing lock. That came out easily.

I cleaned out the swarf from inside the lock and pushed in the new barrel.

Reassembly is the reverse of taking it apart.

When I tried it on the car, it worked perfectly.


Sunday, 3 June 2018

Central locking PoC

In one of my mad scientist moments I have rigged up a test board for the central locking set-up I want to install in Fender. Specifically I wanted to keep standard Land Rover style (c.1998) key fobs but add central door locking.

This is the proof of concept (PoC) that I can configure a Discovery 1 Lucas 10AS immobiliser to work a third party set of door solenoids that I can fit in to our Defender. Land Rover models between 1995 and 1998, and a few years either side, used the Lucas 10AS immobiliser but with varying features enabled. The Discovery variants included central locking.

Among other things, as part of the PoC, I needed to be able to set-up a remote control key fob (blip) with the Nanocom. I've bought the add-on licence that allows me to have some of the Defender systems on my, otherwise, Discovery 2 (TD5) licensed Nanocom diagnostic tool.

The outcome is that everything I wanted to test, worked.

I now know which wires to connect and which way round to connect them.


Configuring a 10AS with a Nanocom

The 10AS is on the Defender TD5 menu.

Before you start, always save the existing settings to an SD-Card.
You can open them to get back to, what is hopefully, a working state.

Key fob (plip) learning
This is on the Utilities menu
Plip Learn
While the dialogue is on the screen press the plip buttons until the hazards flash or, if like me you are working on the bench, you hear the relay trip.
All plips that you want to work have to be done at the same time because you cannot control which of the 4 plip stores will be used so you may or may not overwrite the existing plips.
Just do one plip after the other.
When all are done, press the OK button on the Nanocom.
The plips will work immediately however I prefer to test with the Nanocom disconnected, just to be sure it has completed correctly.

Passive Immobilise
This caused me a lot of grief. There is a gotcha with this setting. If you enable this when disconnected from the car, the plips will no longer work!

It took me hours to find this out. I reverted all the settings and they worked, so I eventually set them one at a time until I found the one that caused it to stop working!
I assume this is a security feature. I would guess that if the passive immobiliser coil is removed the 10AS goes in to immobilise mode and stays there.
When I get it in the car I'll be able to test this theory.

The Passive Immobiliser requires the correct type of plip
I believe it is the Freelander versions that do not have the parts included on the circuit for use with the passive immobiliser coil.
You can't tell from the outside of the key fob.
If you have the unsupported type you could disable the passive immobiliser in the 10AS until you get the right internals for the plip.

This is taken from a forum post:
"Not all 17TN keyfobs are the same.
YWX101220 which is the correct part number for a defender has a built in immobilser chip as well as the radio transmitter.
YWX101200 is a freelander 2001 on keyfob which hasn't got the immobiliser chip. "

Defender and Discovery 10AS
I was unable to change the setting for the name of the vehicle. I was testing with a 10AS from a Discovery 1 and although the Nanocom would allow me to make the change to show Defender, when the settings were written to the 10AS, the vehicle setting reverted to Discovery 1.

Alarm Coding Data
When you go to write the settings you get a second dialogue that asks if you want to save the Alarm Coding Data and warns that this is for the advanced. I now press 'No' on that screen, so only the normal settings are changed and not the advanced data.
I am using educated guesses, so I do not quality as 'advanced'. 'Dangerous amateur' would be a better description. I have tinkered with the alarm coding data but with unsatisfactory results.
I decided, as it was working, I would leave well alone, even though the entries looked odd.


Related articles:

External Links:
I use the lower cost Nanocom but the same company do a professional grade product that can be licensed for just one system, one of the options is the Lucas 10AS: