Post processing resin prints

The trouble with the cleaning process for resin prints is that it means exposure to isopropyl alcohol (IPA) fumes and handling uncured resin. Wearing nitrile gloves is enough to solve the uncured resin risk but the fumes are more difficult. I could wear a mask while handling the models but despite having extraction the smell was obvious in the workshop for an hour or more after finishing.

Taking some advice from articles and YouTube videos I have now changed how I handle the process. I've almost completely eliminated the IPA smell and reduced the time I am handling the models before the resin is cured.

My 3D print area August 2026

I bought a wash station from Heygears. I liked the look of the double canister arrangement so that one box can easily drain the IPA into the other without any exposure to the IPA. What I hadn't expected was how much more efficient the agitating platform was at cleaning the models.

One 4 or 5 minute session in the Heygears Wash setup and the prints are completely clean. 

Tip: An important bit of the process is that the prints have to be supports downwards in the IPA. This is so that any drips of resin end up on the supports, not the models.

My Process Summary

• Put on Nitrile gloves.
• Turn on the extractor and position it over the wash area.
• Fill a wash box to the max marker with IPA. This is only necessary when the IPA gets too contaminated and needs a refresh.
• Put the prints or the entire build plate with the models still attached into an empty wash box. The print supports should be facing towards the bottom of the tank.
• Seal the box and put the full wash box above with the drain connected to the input valve of the empty box.
• Open the upper valve and upper air vent and wait for the IPA to drain onto the print.
• Remember to CLOSE the valve (I keep forgetting!)
• Put the now full box on the wash platform and run for 4 or 5 minutes.
• Now for the reverse. Put the full wash box on top of an empty wash box and drain the IPA.
• Remember to CLOSE the valve.
• Open and remove the prints. If not already done, remove from the build plate.
• Leave to dry. I only wait just enough time for the surface to dry and for anything to have drained out of hollow models.
• Cure the prints with the supports still attached.
• While the prints are curing I usually do any cleaning, such as residue from the emptied wash box.

With the prints now cured, they can be handled and cleaned up without gloves.

All done with very little exposure to uncured resin or IPA and no lingering smell.

Removing cured supports

On small models, I find that removing the supports can be done as they are even when cured. For models with large areas of support it is helpful to soften them in warm water.

I use a plastic food storage box. The temperature of the water is not critical. I find even lukewarm is sufficient. I usually start with water that is about as hot as I would have for a bath. Not as hot as my wife has in her bath. Just about bearable to put my hand in.

With Heygears PAF10 (PVC-like) resin, the supports become very soft and easy to remove. Much easier than they would be before curing the print.

As the models are clean, not tacky and I am not wearing gloves, the support removal has been much easier for me than it used to be.

Reusing IPA

It's not a perfect process, I'm still left with a short exposure to open IPA containers when cleaning and swapping IPA. If I wash with the build plate still attached the IPA tends to get dirtier than if the models are removed first. The extra resin from the build plate requires that I have to swap out the IPA more often. 

When the models don't come out as clean as they should or before that if I remember, I'll clean the IPA. I use a clear container that fits in the cure station. This is so I can cure the resin within the IPA. When cured the resin is easy to remove from the container. I sometimes use a silicone scraper to help. The now cleaner IPA can then be reused.

IPA cleaning process:

• Pour the dirty IPA into a clear container.
• Seal the container.
• Cure in the cure station for 20 mins.
• Drain the IPA via a filter funnel into a storage bottle or one of the wash boxes for reuse.
• Scrape the cured resin off of the clear container ready for the container to be reused.

Sometimes I repeat the process because it is the resin on the outer edges of the container that get cured likely leaving some uncured deeper inside.

Note: Curing resin in IPA, does not get rid of the dye. The IPA retains a cloudy grey look while the resin removed tends to be a white gel.

Cleaning up resin spills

There will always be times when some uncured resin gets where it's not wanted, or just the run off from the build plate while removing the prints.

This needs to be handled and disposed of thoughtfully. The simple solution I use is to cure the resin with a small handheld 395nm UV lamp.

I was surprised how short an exposure the resin needs to become rigid. Less than a minute is sufficient.

Build Plate Lift

I've made myself a frame to help lift the build plate out of the wash boxes.

Mk2 lift frame

This is mark 2. The handles on my previous version were inadequate.

Download:

Reflex build plate lift 3D print file CC-BY-NC-SA

Change of plan:

Despite designing and testing the frame to lift the build plate, I have decided that removing the models from the build plate before washing them is the better option for me. The minimal time required to separate the prints from the plate adds very little extra exposure to uncured resin and no extra exposure to IPA. It means the IPA needs less frequent replacement.

I do like the nice clean build plate, but I'm still tending towards removing the prints before washing.

I can always deliberately include the build plate in the wash from time to time.

==

Reference:

https://store.heygears.com/blogs/blog/how-to-clean-resin-prints

==

Heygears resin reminders

I will be trying out resins for different uses and to, hopefully, find the most appropriate for each type of object that I create.

To help with this, I want to remind myself of the results. I am new to resin printing and these are my experiences and opinions.

PARP10

Described by Heygears as "rapid prototyping".

My Experience:

Surface: Smooth and crisp.

Detail: Very good. Sharp corners.

Toughness: I can drop the models on the floor and for the most part there is no sign of damage, however, thin detail parts are easy to break off.

Flex: Negligible. It'll break if bent.

Ease of use: Very easy. No additional thought needed just position and use auto-supports.

Minimum cure time: 5 minutes.

Heat processing: None

Processing: Miniatures typically need about 10 mins curing and no heat.

I would use this for: Miniatures, non-stressed components and decorative pieces.

==

PAU10

Described by Heygears as "ABS-like".

My Experience:

Surface: Slightly soft.

Detail: Moderate. Slight curves on corners.

Toughness: I can drop the parts on the floor with no sign of damage.

Flex: Some. Tricky to break. Bends a bit first.

Ease of use: I've had a few misshaped results. At the moment I'm putting this down to stretch caused by suction as the print pulls away from the release film. The larger the surface area or the more leverage on long thin objects, the more pronounced the issue. I've had to reposition parts to have less leverage and hollow them out more.
For most of my projects, until I know how to use it better, this resin is more trouble than it's worth.

Minimum cure time: 10 minutes but most parts need longer.

Heat processing: For improved performance, up to an hour at 46C.

Processing: For larger thicker models up to 30 mins cure time and optionally an hour of heat. I also find that parts often need to be turned upside down and the curing run again for about 15 mins.

I would use this for: Component cases and small functional parts.

==

PAF10

Described by Heygears as "flexible production (PVC-like)".

My Experience:

Surface: Slightly soft.

Detail: Good, sharp corners but a tendency for them to scuff.

Toughness: I can drop the parts on the floor with no sign of damage. Thin parts can break off but they tolerate careless handling better than more brittle resins.

Flex: Lots. Very thin parts sometimes curl slightly.

Ease of use: So far it's been easy. Support marks are more visible than harder resins but they are easy to cut or sand off. I've grown to like this resin and I think I will use it a lot.
For larger models I have noticed a tendency to warp. Some flat surface are not flat, they curve towards one edge. For long thin parts they may twist after printing and over time.
For most miniatures, this if not usually noticeable, but can be an issue with vehicles.

Minimum cure time: 20 minutes.

Heat processing: None.

Processing: Easy. I have only needed to use cure and I'm pleased with the surface finish. I find about 30 minutes cure time is enough for most parts.

I would use this for: Miniatures and functional parts. I was a little sceptical about how this would work with small parts, but once cured, the flex is just right to avoid small parts breaking off easily, yet rigid enough to paint.
I am still deciding how best to print vehicles, or if I should use a different resin for them.

This is currently what I use for all my prints. I'm trying to stick with one resin to avoid the clean up time and mess of swapping resins.

==

My 3D print area in Feb 2025

Subjective

The above statements are a bit vague and very subjective. I will adjust them over time as I gain more experience, but they should be viewed only as a rough guide.

Drop Test

My very simple test is to drop the model from about a metre above ground onto a concrete or similar floor. Repeated a couple of times. For most of what I print, I want them to survive careless handling, but I don't need industrial strength.

Curing Times

I use the Heygears cure unit. I find that sending the model to the cure unit is an unnecessary step, especially as I rarely remember to turn on the cure unit in advance. I've sent a couple of test models, to gauge the times, then for most of my prints I manually set a cure time from the dial on the front of the machine.

==

Updated: April 2025 and August 2026

I've had more experience and used resin on many more projects so I've revised some of my conclusions.

How things change in under 18 months. The picture in the original article shows not only my very old Ultimaker FDM printer but my previous wash setup for the resin.

My 3D print area in August 2026

That is what the space looks like now, in August 2026.

==

My first resin 3D printer

My Christmas present to myself is a HeyGears Ultracraft Reflex 3D printer.

The Cure unit arrived first, then the resin and just before the New Year, the printer arrived.

Setup and getting it going was fairly easy. It had 8 setup screens to go through. It included levelling and updating the firmware, among a few other things.

My test print was a scaled down Millennium Falcon model. I printed it horizontal, for speed, but that meant there were a lot of support marks on the underside. The top surface showed the quality that the printer could produce. 

The post processing was not as fiddly or time consuming as I had expected. I used my existing ultrasonic cleaner to wash off the uncured resin. I'd seen a tip on a YouTube video to put the isopropyl alcohol (IPA) in a plastic bag. This avoids the chance that the IPA could degrade any rubber seals that may be in the unit and it also reduces the amount of IPA that needs to be used.

I filled the ultrasonic cleaner with water and put the bag of IPA with the print inside, into the water. I ran the unit for 10 minutes, which did a good job.

I removed the supports and quickly dried the print before putting it in the curing unit for 20 mins.

==