Defender hazard and indicator light diagnostics

Defender 1984 to 2016

Hazard and Indicator Lights Diagnostics

“Many problems with the indicators are actually faults with the hazard switch.”

 

Wiring Differences

The various models of Land Rover Defenders from 1984 through to 2016 have similar wiring but have slightly different colour wires connected at the hazard switch.

The wiring colours are written as the main colour first with the stripe colour after. As an example, a light green wire with a white stripe would be written as Light Green/White (LGW). A grey (slate) wire with a brown stripe would be written as Slate/Brown (SN).

After 1998, the colour of the ignition feed changes to White/Green and the permanent feed to Purple/Brown.

Operation

To better understand the significant functions, only the indicator operation is described in the following. The panel lighting and tell-tale light functions are not noted here:

When off (not depressed)   Indicators can be used.

+12V to the flasher relay is supplied from the ignition feed. The ignition has to be in position two for the indicators to work from the column controls. == +12V ignition, Dark Green or White/Green, depending on the model year, is connected to the Light Green wire to the flasher unit.

When on (depressed)   Hazard lights in use.

+12V permanent feed is connected to the flasher unit. The return from the flasher is connected to both the left-hand and right-hand side indicators. Both sides indicators will flash. == Permanent +12V Purple or Purple/Brown wire is connected to the Light Green wire to the flasher unit. The Light Green/Brown return wire from the flasher unit is connected to both the Green/Red and Green/White feeds to the indicator lamps.

 

Diagnostics

I like to make up a test wire using an inline fuse. This is to avoid mistakes accidentally shorting out a live to earth. A 5A fuse is suggested. It needs to be less than 10Amp to avoid the fuse box fuse blowing first.

Most indicator faults can be diagnosed via the hazard switch connector.

To Test	Method	Expected Result
Indicator wiring	At the hazard switch connector. Connect the permanent live, Purple or Purple/Brown, to the Left and Right indicator wires, in turn. Left is Green/Red Right is Green/White	The indicators on one side would illuminate. Not flashing.
Flasher unit and indicator controls	At the hazard switch connector. Connect the permanent live, Purple or Purple/Brown, to the Light Green flasher feed.   Operate the indicator stalk switches.	The appropriate indicators should flash.
Ignition live feed	At the hazard switch connector. Repeat the above two operations using the ignition feed Green or White/Green wire, in place of the Purple wire. The ignition switch must be in position two.	Same results as above.
Indicator stalk switches	At the indicator stalk pins. Bridge the Light Green/Brown common wire from the flasher to the indicator wires, in turn: Left is Green/Red Right is Green/White	The appropriate indicators should flash.

Just in-case anyone notices. The photos are from a 1998 300TDi re-wired to use the switches from a newer 2002 onwards TDCi.

Troubleshooting

Bridging any of the wires at the connector works but using the switch fails.	Clean the connector pins on both the connector and out the back of the switch.   If the above fails to resolve the issue, it will be necessary to replace the switch.
Either bridging of the permanent or ignition wire tests fail.	Check the appropriate fuse.
The indicator lamps illuminate when connected to a live but do not work through the flasher unit.	Remove the flasher unit from its socket and clean the pins.   If the above fails to resolve the issue, it will be necessary to replace the flasher unit.

Cleaning Connector Pins

This can be done with a pencil rubber or more commonly with fine sandpaper. A needle file can be useful to get into confined spaces.

Where the electrical interface is inaccessible, a chemical contact cleaner can be used, however this often also needs the connector to be inserted and removed a few times to assist the cleaning process.

If the connector pins do not hold tightly, small, pointed nose pliers can sometimes be used to gently close up the female portion of the connector pins.

 

Fuses

Ignoring the main fuses and links because there would be other symptoms if they had blown.

Up to 1998 300TDi	Permanent Feed, Purple – Central interior fuse box Fuse 1 (15A) Ignition lighting feed, Green – Central interior fuse box Fuse 3 (15A)
1999 to 2001 Early TD5	Permanent Feed, Purple/Brown – Central interior fuse box Fuse 31 (15A) Ignition lighting feed, White/Green – Central interior fuse box Fuse 21 (10A)
2002 to 2016 Late TD5 TDCi Puma	Permanent Feed, Purple/Brown – Central interior fuse box Fuse 31 (15A) Ignition lighting feed, White/Green – Central interior fuse box Fuse 21 (10A)

 

Switch Types

Defender 1983 to 2001 TD, 200TDi, 300TDi and early TD5 YUF101490 Lucas switch
Defender 2002 to 2016 Late TD5 and TDCi Puma YUG000180LNF
Freelander 1996 to 2002 YUG102220	The early Freelander hazard switch body is the same as the late Defender. It uses the same wiring and connector but the key cap is different. In the event that a Defender hazard switch is not available, that era Freelander switch can be used as an alternative. In order to make it fit the dash panel, the key cap needs to be carefully removed and swapped over with the Defender key cap. It is held on by two plastic clips, one top and one bottom.

 

I'll add to this if I discover any more tips.

I only have direct experience of a 1998 300TDi and a 2009 TDCi. All other information is taken from manuals and third-hand information. There are likely to be exceptions and some cars, like my own, will have been modified.

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Defender 300TDi heated seats

This is the second time I've added heated seats to Fender. This time I've done what I think is a tidier job.

Fender is a 1998, 300TDi, so there was no factory fit heated seats option. As usual, I've had to work out my own wiring. There is a convenient feed for air conditioning, which I've used for the heated seats.

It's not very many week ago that I fitted the heated seat wiring to our TDCi Defender, Thunder Truck. 

As then, I've fitted relays. Land Rover wire their heated seats directly via the switches. I am unsure of the rating of the switches and the after-market heated seat pads do not state what current each circuit requires. All I know for sure is that they are fitted with a 20A fuse, so it is safe to assume each seat uses no more than 10A. I've used that to size all the wire gauges.

I'm using an extended fuse box cover. I bought it so I had enough space for the extra relays without struggling but it was also the ideal place to mount the heated seat switches.

I made a bracket to mount the relays under the existing fuses.

Measuring where to cut the rubber mat

Before fitting the new Exmoor Trim seats I fitted the under seat rubber mat. Another Exmoor Trim product.

I've used some 1/2" (12.7mm) spacers to stop the seat rails catching on the thick rubber mats. The mats are so thick, I've found, that it needs at least 12mm spacers for the seat to move freely.

I needed longer seat bolts, so I bought some stainless steel M8x40mm torx pan head bolts which do the job nicely. I've done the same in both Defenders.

With the mats and the seats in, I threaded the cables before fitting the carpet and cubby box.

I've used Discovery 2 (D2) heated seat switches because, at the time I was looking, I could not get Defender TD5 or TDCi switches. The D2 switches are the same as the Defender switches, they just have different style caps. I've wired them so that the tell-tale lamps and the backlights work.

Tested and working well. Nice and warm.

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Discovery 4 door mirror replacement

 I finally got round to swapping out the damaged door mirror assembly that I damaged at Christmas.

I was hoping to be able to get away with just replacing the plastic upper cover, but when I looked, the metal internal housing was cracked. 

The whole unit had to be replaced.

I tried to do it just by removing the small plastic speaker cover section, but the connector for the cable is behind the door trim panel, so off came the door panel.

It's not too difficult to remove the panel. There's a screw at the open end of the door, towards the top.

There's one behind the door opener. By pushing the bottom edge of the little cover, the top edge pops out enough to get hold of and it comes out.

There are two screws each side of the grab handle. The silver plastic covers are a little tricky to get the trim tools under but with enough confidence and a bit of struggling, they pop off. 

There are some small tabs at the sides that make it more difficult. Knowing that helps to lever in the right direction.

The two long screws in the door pocket are easy to get out.

With all the screws removed, it's fairly easy to pull the panel off, starting in the lower outer corner. Again, it needs a bit of leverage and some confidence to get the clips to pop out.

Watch out for the small triangular speaker housing. There is a popper type clip that will fall out and is easily lost.

As I was only doing the mirror, there was no need to disconnect the wires to remove the door panel. I could get to the door mirror connector and screws, easily with the panel just pulled away.

Swap with the new assembly.

Clip in the new motor and secure with the one central screw.

Attach the wire to the heated mirror and push on.

Lastly, after having checked it works, I clipped on the new plastic cover.

Put it all back together and checked it all still worked.

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