Post processing resin prints

The trouble with the cleaning process for resin prints is that it means exposure to isopropyl alcohol (IPA) fumes and handling uncured resin. Wearing nitrile gloves is enough to solve the uncured resin risk but the fumes are more difficult. I could wear a mask while handling the models but despite having extraction the smell was obvious in the workshop for an hour after finishing.

Taking some advice from articles and YouTube videos I have now changed how I handle the process. I've almost completely eliminated the IPA smell and significantly reduced the need to handle the models before the resin is cured.

My 3D print area August 2026

I bought a wash station from Heygears. I liked the look of the double canister arrangement so that one box can easily drain the IPA into the other without any exposure to the IPA. What I hadn't expected was how much more efficient the agitating platform was at cleaning the models.

One 4 or 5 minute session in the Heygears Wash setup and the prints are completely clean. 

Tip: An important bit of the process is that the prints have to be supports downwards in the IPA. This is so that any drips of resin end up on the supports, not the models.

My Process Summary

• Put on Nitrile gloves.
• Turn on the extractor and position it over the wash area.
• Fill a wash box to the max marker with IPA. This is only necessary when the IPA gets too contaminated and needs a refresh.
• Put the prints or the entire build plate with the models still attached into an empty wash box. The print supports should be facing towards the bottom of the tank.
• Seal the box and put the full wash box above with the drain connected to the input valve of the empty box.
• Open the upper valve and upper air vent and wait for the IPA to drain onto the print.
• Remember to CLOSE the valve (I keep forgetting!)
• Put the now full box on the wash platform and run for 4 or 5 minutes.
• Now for the reverse. Put the full wash box on top of an empty wash box and drain the IPA.
• Remember to CLOSE the valve.
• Open and remove the prints. If not already done, remove from the build plate.
• Leave to dry. I only wait enough time for them not to be messy for the next stage.
• Cure the prints with the supports still attached.
• While the prints are curing I usually do any cleaning, such as residue from the emptied wash box.

With the prints now cured, they can be handled and cleaned up without gloves.

I have read that cured supports are harder to remove and leave a more noticeable mark, I have not really noticed either of those but I keep in the back of my mind that the supports could be softened with the model soaked in warm water, if that ever became an issue.

I find that as the models are clean and dry and I am not wearing gloves, the support removal, overall, is easier.

All done with very little exposure to uncured resin or IPA and no lingering smell.

Reusing IPA

It's not a perfect process, I'm still left with a short exposure to open IPA containers when cleaning and swapping IPA. If I wash with the build plate still attached the IPA tends to get dirtier than if the models are removed first. The extra resin from the build plate requires that I have to swap out the IPA more often. I use a clear container that fits in the cure station, so I can cure the resin within the IPA. When cured the resin is easy to remove from the container. I sometimes use a silicone scraper to help. The now cleaner IPA can then be reused.

IPA cleaning process:

• Pour the dirty IPA into a clear container.
• Seal the container.
• Cure in the cure station for 20 mins.
• Drain the IPA via a filter funnel into a storage bottle or one of the wash boxes for reuse.
• Scrape the cured resin off of the clear container ready for the container to be reused.

Sometimes I repeat the process because it is the resin on the outer edges of the container that get cured likely leaving some uncured deeper inside.

Note: Curing resin in IPA, does not get rid of the dye. The IPA retains a cloudy grey look while the resin removed tends to be a white gel.

Build Plate Lift

I'm working on a frame to help lift the build plate out of the wash boxes.

Mk2 lift frame

Mark 2 is working. With handles added either end, it is easy to lift out of the wash box.

Download:

Reflex build plate lift 3D print file CC-BY-NC-SA

Undecided:

Despite designing and testing the frame to lift the build plate, I am still undecided if removing the models from the build plate first, may be the better option. The minimal time required to separate the prints from the plate adds very little extra exposure to uncured resin and no extra exposure to IPA. It would mean the IPA would need less frequent replacement.

I do like the nice clean build plate, but I'm still tending towards removing the prints before washing.

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Reference:

https://store.heygears.com/blogs/blog/how-to-clean-resin-prints

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Heygears Reflex maintenance menus

I had cause to contact Heygears to calibrate the level of my Reflex printer. The maintenance menus are password protected needing Heygears Support to provide a temporary passcode.

The options are strictly controlled with built in checks to make it difficult to mess it up. In this case, at the time I initially tried to carry it out, it was too hot. I had to get up early the following day to carry out the calibration.

Maintenance Menus

As mentioned, the maintenance menus require a passcode supplied by Heygears support. I took the opportunity while I had access to take a record of what is available.

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Miniature paint schemes reference

Many years ago, I wrote reminders in a little lined book. This contained the proportions of each paint I had used to create a specific colour and notes on what painting techniques achieved a particular result.

I can afford to buy more paints now, so I rarely mix a colour from scratch, therefore I don't need to keep a record of that, but what colours and techniques I have used for specific models and results is still handy. This page will become a reminder of those and an index to other more detailed articles.

I'll refer back here, as I used to with my little book. It will be handy when creating additions to an army or just to produce something similar.

Power armour - green

Base: Russian green (71.017) airbrush.

Wash: black

Dry brush edge highlights: Goblin green (72.030)

Gecko skin - blue scales

Base: Royal Blue (70.809)

Wash: Sepia (73.300)

Dry brush: Sky blue (70.961)

Saurian skin - greenish yellow scales

Base: Beasty brown (72.043)

Wash: Black

Dry brush: Gold yellow (72.007)

Reptile - green scales

Base: Olive green (71.007) airbrush

Dry brush: Goblin green (72.030)

Green reptile skin and steel plate

Steel plate

Base: Silver metallic.

Wash: Black.

Dry brush: Silver or silver highlight.

Suit of armour

Suit of Armour

Base: Black primer

Dry brush: Silver metallic.

This technique covers a lot of surface very quickly.

Reptile - green with brownish scales

Base: Olive green (71.007) airbrush

Dry brush: Beasty brown (72.043)

Cast Iron

Base: Gunmetal metallic.

Dry brush: Silver metallic.

Cast Iron and Dark Bronze

In addition to the cast iron, the above photo shows:

Dark Bronze

Base: Bronze metallic (70.998).

Wash: Ancient copper shade (Vallejo 77.144 from the true metallic metal set.)

Dry brush: Bronze metallic.

Reptile - green with reddish scales

Base: Olive green (71.007) airbrush

Dry brush: Gory red (72.011)

Dry brush edge highlight: Orange fire (72.008)

Red reptile skin

Washes

See the separate page.

Dry Brushing

For edge highlighting, see the separate page.

Bases

See the separate page for how I prefer to base my armies.

Gold Visors

See the separate page for how I have done gold visors.

Paints

I nearly exclusively use acrylics. Oil based paints irritate my sinuses, so with all the jobs I do I try to select water based paints. From a modelling perspective, I like the very fast drying time of acrylic paints. Although, obviously that makes blending colours more difficult than with oils.

I mainly use paints from the various Vallejo acrylic ranges. Model Colour, Game Colour, Game Air and Model Air.

Unless otherwise stated, the part numbers listed refer to Vallejo paints.

I also have a very small number of AK Interactive paints. I find the pigments in these dry a little thicker, which gives them good coverage but they are more prone to hide fine details. I bear that in mind when using them. I'm unlikely to replace them when they run out.

Years ago I used Citadel paints, but I have not tried them recently.

I'm sure there are plenty of other good paint ranges, but as I like the Vallejo that I have, there is no point in me trying alternatives.

Primer

See the separate page for a review of primers.

Clear Coat

See the separate page for matt clear coat reviews.

Brushes

See the separate page for a review of the brushes I have tried.

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