I have shown these in previous posts. They are for use with tabletop games with miniatures that are nominally 28mm scale. I have finally had time to package up the CAD files for download for others to 3D print.
At the moment, there are parts available to create gothic buildings or an alien fort.
The components snap together using OpenLOCK clips. This makes for easy storage and lots of possibilities for what shapes the buildings will be.
If you wish to print these yourself, you will need to download all of the generic parts and either or both of the Gothic and Alien fort components.
The Painting Rack is optional, but it makes it easier to support the components on end while, you guessed it, you are painting them.
I chose to paint all of the parts the same base wall colour, so that the Alien Fort and the Gothic buildings have interchangeable generic components.
If these parts are oriented appropriately, all of them will print without support. I print them with a 0.2mm layer height and 8% infill with a 0.4mm nozzle.
I have a plan to play a tabletop game with a friend in a few months' time. From my side, this is an excuse and inspiration to make some scenery and paint some miniatures. Both things I know I enjoy. I also like the paraphernalia that helps with the game play.
Such things as markers for objectives and the status of units. There are lots to choose from but, I decided that the markers used for wounds could be made more convenient.
The most popular games use one of two types of marker. Warhammer 40K uses a count down of the remaining wounds. Others, like One Page Rules, use a count up of the number of damaging hits. The markers I have designed are best suited to the latter.
The numbers are based on binary. 1, 2, 4, 8 and 16 sizes. The maximum in any one 5-high stack goes up to 31 wounds. Easy to move as one unit.
I was asked to make them self stackable, and with an alternate numeric set 1,2,3,5 and 10. I have not printed the additional variations yet, but I've created the models which can be downloaded:
Please let me know in the comments if they work OK.
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Update: 30 Jan 2026
I may have got carried away...
I now have tokens for: objectives, numbered and coloured, red and green flags for objective control, Astra Militarum unit orders, One Page Rules unit activation, command or caster points and some intended for unit status.
There are lots of vendors supplying their variations of mills based on standard components produced, and usually assembled, in China. These are excellent value machines, and the few I have used I have found to be quite capable.
The power feed solutions available for the X-axis are all pretty much the same. It looks to me like a power feed design, from many decades ago, has been replicated and then very basic solutions used to adapt the fitting of that design to other mills.
The original product looks like it was designed for a large floor standing Boxford knee mill. This is not ideal for a benchtop mill and none of the attachment methods that I have seen are quite right for my requirements. Therefore, I have designed my own bracket.
My mounting bracket
I have a Warco WM18 mill but my design, or a slight variation of it, probably applies to similar mills marketed by Chester in the UK and Precision Matthews in the US among other vendors.
The finished result
Position
The main requirement I was trying to solve with my solution was to mount the power feed so that it does not foul the bench or the chip tray of the mill, while also not requiring too much bench real-estate.
Photo from an eBay advert
The fitment for benchtop mills provided by all the versions that I could find use a horizontal bracket held by a rather disappointing looking pair of bolts clamping that to the mill table. The motor is in line with the table so the power feed sticks out a long way, usually to the left of the mill table. I did not have enough space for that arrangement.
I briefly thought about designing and building a solution from scratch, using a stepper motor. I decided that the design of this had some complications to ensure that the handwheels still worked, so for the time being an off the shelf motor with the clutch and controls built-in was going to be a quicker to implement solution. I therefore concentrated on a better method to mount a readily available power feed.
For inspiration, I looked at the way a few others had mounted the feed and concluded that I would prefer to replace the left handwheel and have the power feed motor at right angles to the table and the controls horizontal facing upwards.
Having part of the housing and the controls above the surface of the table may get in the way at some point, but my guess is that if I have something that big on the table, raising it up to avoid the motor is unlikely to be the most difficult part of holding that work.
Typical advert on eBay
Having made that decision, I bought the standard kit intended to hang from the right handwheel of a Boxford mill.
Mounting
My design fits to the left hand end with the bronze gear between the motor and the table. This is the opposite of where it would fit on a Boxford mill.
3D printed mock-up
I designed and 3D printed a couple of possible brackets to bolt on in place of the original end bracket. The result was a bit too large to mill out from a block of aluminium so I opted to weld together some 15mm thick steel plate.
This mounts using the original M6 threaded holes and the holes for the 6mm dowel pins.
My mill has a DRO scale mounted on the left hand side. I adjusted the bracket to maximise the movement of the table, but my design does reduce the table travel by about 50mm. I could probably gain a further 15mm if I moved the DRO scale, but for the moment, I don't need that travel.
Gears
The main bronze gear is supplied bored for a 16mm shaft. The newer WM18 mills, such as mine, have a 17mm shaft with a 5mm key.
I found it fairly easy to mount that gear in the lathe and enlarge the bore. I also pressed in a 5mm keyway.
At a later time during prototyping I cut 15mm off the length of the gear.
I also cross drilled a 5mm hole and threaded for an M6 grub screw.
I bought and used some 17mm ID shims to help position the gear, but these are probably redundant with the grub screw.
Bracket
As mentioned, the larger bracket is made from 15mm and a small length of 6mm mild steel plate. The end mounting plate which the motor housing is bolted to, is made form 6mm steel plate.
Inevitably, the design evolved slightly as the prototype progressed.
I originally had a bearing in the design, but I have eventually opted for a ball oiler instead. That is in keeping with the rest of the mill. I also had to mill a clearance slot for a stepped radius on the bronze gear, that was just a fraction larger than I had initially allowed for.
On the largest section I drilled the mounting holes on the mill, before assembly. Also before assembly, I faced one side on the lathe and bored out the hole for the shaft.
My welding leaves a bit to be desired, but it's more than strong enough and I've been able to clean up most of it.
As welding inevitably pulls the assembly out of alignment, I've used the mill to get to the final dimensions.
Alignment
The last job was making sure that the motor axis aligned correctly with the shaft.
I made a bush to fit with a 17mm ID for the shaft and a 24mm OD to fit the motor mount spindle.
Sketch of the bush
With the bush in place on the shaft and the end plate attached to the motor mount, I held the motor in place on the shaft and square to the bracket while carefully transfer punching the mounting holes.
Ready To Go
With the holes drilled and tapped and everything assembled it was time to test.
It worked well, first time.
I've cleaned it up and painted it yellow to match Warco's colour scheme.
I've also 3D printed the cosmetic covers to match.
I'm pleased with the end result.
End Stops
The track fitting on the rear of the sprung stops that came with the kit were too wide to fit the track on the mill table. A simple job to mill those down to fit. Luckily a standard M6 nut would fit in the groove, so I have not had to make threaded inserts for the track yet, but I probably will at some point.
The bracket for the cut out switches, did not align with any holes in the mill table and the existing holes made adapting the existing bracket difficult. Therefore I made a new bracket.
I thought about all sorts of complicated designs for threaded adapters to try to use the existing holes in the table but in the end it was much easier and tidier to drill and tap some M6 holes in the front of the table. That made the bracket a simple T-shaped bent bit of steel.
I also added a threaded hold to secure a P-clip to keep the cable clear of the slide.
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Plans
For anyone interested in making their own, here are the drawings:
Hardware:
I used cap head machine screws to match the mill.
4x M6x25mm - to mount the bracket to the table.
2x 6mm dia., x18mm stainless steel dowel pins - to align the bracket with the table.
4x M6x20mm - to mount the motor housing to the end plate.
4x M6x12mm - to mount the end plate to the bracket.
2x M6x10mm - to mount the front and end cosmetic covers.
2x M6x45mm and nuts - to mount the rear cosmetic cover.
2x 5mm dia., x10mm roll pins - to align the motor housing.
