Using TDCi switches in a 300TDi

In the process of personalising Fender, I've fitted newer switches. That requires a few wiring changes.

The following document details the necessary connections for the main switches and the changes to use a TD5 or TDCi tail door harness instead of a 300TDi harness:

300TDi to Puma connectors (PDF)

Switch Mounting

I have also designed and 3D printed various panels to mount the newer switches into a 300TDi.

We have a Raptor Engineering centre dash that I had already configured to fit a specific Sony Stereo. I changed one section to fit the switches. The panel cut out is for a single DIN radio. All the switch mounting panels are in the same style as the Raptor dash.

On the drivers side the hazard and rear fog switches will just fit into the space of the original small  switch panel.

Downloads:

DIN button panel STL and STEP (Zip)

This is two parts. The three M5 bolts clamp the two halves together.

Small button panel STL and STEP (Zip)

This is three parts. The thin rear walls can be superglued in to place or just left free to be held in place by the switches. The middle hole is for a cosmetic self taping screw to match the mounting screws at either end.

TD5 and TDCi button blank STL and STEP (Zip)

I print this with 1.2mm thick walls standing on the button face. I have to sand it down and paint the part that is on show.

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Fender is back

When Shelley's previous Defender, Fender, was written off, its remains were bought by the owner of the garage we use.

Much to our surprise he rebuilt it much quicker than we expected and we asked for first refusal if he was ever to sell it. He did and we bought it back at the end of November.

Mark at Gratech 4x4 has done an excellent job getting Fender back on the road.

Since then I've been personalising it and putting back the electrics needed now that it is a van again.

I've re-enabled the central locking and added the solenoid and linkage to the tail door.

I've used TD5 and TDCi switches and updated the dash to fit those.

Plus there are some more jobs on-going.

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Defender Puma heated seat electrics

We already had the Exmore Trim heated seat elements in the seats in Shelley's car. I wanted to wire them in using the original Land Rover switches.

It was easy to find a set of switches on ebay with the connectors. I'm not keen on them being pre-wired but that's how they came. Land Rover's standard wiring has the heating element controlled directly by the switch. I was unable to find out the current limit of the switches, nor the current draw of the Exmore Trim heating elements. All I know is that they use a 20A fuse for the pair.

It is safe to assumed, that the seats draw less than 10A per seat. I didn't want to take any chances with the Land Rover switches, so I have run them to relays.

The above is the updated circuit diagram with the heated seat switches connected via fuse 33. I also ran cables ready for a Sub-Woofer. The positive feed is shown in the above diagram, connected via fuse 32.

I was able to buy the contact pins that fit the standard Land Rover fuse boards, so I was able to use two of the spare ways in the under dash fusebox, to fit the fuse for the heated seat switch feed and another for the sub-woofer power. Both are switched from, what is called, the Window relay. That relay feeding various things, like electric windows and heated seats, when fitted, plus the windscreen wipers.

It's a bit tricky to access the fusebox because, although it can be unbolted, it does not fit through the opening in the dash. I managed to do what I needed.

I had a bit of luck with the feed for the power to the seats. There is an unused fuse in the under seat fusebox. Fuse 4. I happened to have the right spade connected to add in to the plug in that fusebox to connect to Fuse 4 and that fuse is marked as 20A. Perfect for my needs.

I ran a wire from the under bonnet ground stud to an unused stud under the seat. That probably wasn't necessary but with a definite negative connection to the under seat point, I was confident using that for all the negative connections.

I made up some harnesses and threaded them out in to the engine bay and under the car to the UK drivers side seat box. In that box are the two relays. They are attached to the relay brackets handily provided by Land Rover. From there another cable runs to the UK passenger side seat box.

It's just a job of terminating all the wires and plugging them together.

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Hot box

It is often convenient to be able to put tools away while they are still hot. To make this safe, I keep my soldering irons and hot air guns in metal cases but it is necessary to keep the hot ends away from anything else, including their own leads.

Having added a rework station to my collection, I needed a different box. For this, I have used a large army style ammo crate.

I've added divisions inside to separate the hot ends from the other items in the box.

I got carried away. I've sprayed it a gun metal colour...

and stencilled some lettering.

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Home made twisted pair audio cable

I'm not sure if many people would appreciate my reasoning but I decided that I could make a slightly tidier job if I used a twisted pair cable to connect up the sub-woofer in Shelley's car, rather than a long RCA (phono) cable and an adapter.

I could buy twisted pair cable but for a one off job I decided I might as well make my own. To that end, I rigged up a tool out of short lengths of timber and some spring clamps.

I use the spring clamps and timber, rather than the vice, so that the cables do not get crushed. I use the same thing when holding wires to be soldered

I spun one end by hand, doing about 40 full turns per metre of cable length. When I stopped to add more length, I put a bit of tape round, just to keep the cables together. Cable gauge and twists are all guesswork but I'm confident it is better than I need.

It took less than an hour to make over 5m, including cutting the timber and threading the outer sleeve.

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