Tuesday, 27 April 2010
Home makers
The swallows have been here for about two weeks now. Just one to start and then a second last weekend. I just got the cameras up in time for them to start repairing their nest.
These are the first pictures of the swallows at the nest, taken yesterday.
These are the first pictures of the swallows at the nest, taken yesterday.
Saturday, 13 February 2010
Land Rover Discovery TD5 Front Recovery Points
This is one of those things that someone should produce but at the time of writing they don't. Therefore I had my own made.
What are they for?
Land Rover Discovery TD5 Front Recovery Points. As the name suggests these are for off-road recovery from the front. If you have found this web page you probably already know the problem. No one (at the time of typing) makes front recovery points for the series 2 Discovery.
What else does the same job?
There are several solutions if you are prepared to completely replace the bumper or replace the lower section of bumper but both affect the appearance. I like off-roading but I like my car to look fairly respectable the rest of the time.
Plans
I managed to take the necessary measurements and draw up some plans. Luckily they fitted perfectly first time.
The brackets angle down but when you look at the plans the bolt holes are in line with the metal edges. This is correct. It is a right angle and the bolt holes are in a straight line. Yet when fitted the brackets angles downwards and protrude at about the same place as the existing lashing point. This is because the bolt holes on the end of the chassis where these are mounted are not upright. The bolt holes are already angled with the top one being further forward than the bottom one, producing the necessary angle when the bracket is fitted.
You only need the 11mm hole and the 11mm slot. The two 9mm holes shown on the plans were just in case I wanted to mount any underside protection from the brackets.
Materials:
8mm thick mild steel
Zinc coated after manufacture
Costs:
I had mine produced by a local Land Rover enthusiast garage, Gratech , who in turn had a local metal fabricator make up the pair.
Even with two lots of mark up involved I was only quoted £25 plus VAT each (Total £60 the pair in Feb.2010)
Installation
When cutting the slots to fit the brackets be very CAREFUL. There is a washer HOSE running just behind the bumper very close to where the brackets need to protrude. This runs on BOTH sides just behind the bumper. I drilled the top hole using a 10mm drill a lot lower than I needed and filed upwards carefully avoiding the hose. You can get the positions of the holes fairly close by eye. Start on the side with the existing lashing point so you can see through to where you need to be and then mirror the position on the other side. The brackets mount on the inside of the chassis members.
From under the vehicle, remove the underside cover to get at the bumper mounting bolts. This cover may have to be cut slightly to be able to replace it neatly once the new brackets are in place.
Remove the existing lashing point on the side where it is fitted and fit the new recovery points using the original bolts.
The measurements were taken from my 2004 facelift Discovery 2. As far as I know they should also fit pre-facelift models but the position within the valence is unknown.
==
Update: 29/03/2017
These were being discussed in a forum at http://www.africaland.it/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=102649 I had to use Google Translate to understand the Italian conversations but it sounded like if enough people clubbed together they would manufacture some sets.
Here are some of the photo's from that forum which may be of use to others.
They made theirs with 10mm steel.
I have a rotary cutter now which would have been easier. At the time I cut it by hand.
Shows the cut to the underside cover to clear the towing eyes.
That picture shows that they fit on the inside of the chassis rails.
The person who took this photo used longer bolts but I did not need to do that. After I had removed the old lashing eye the bolts on my car were plenty long enough.
That's a good picture showing the bolts and that they are at an angle.
==
Update: 07 April 2017
Ian Dixon of http://www.rock-sliders.co.uk/ mentioned in a Facebook post that he could add them to their product range if there was enough interest.
Update: 10 March 2020
Ratel-X industries, have made some of these. See their Facebook page.
==
What are they for?
Land Rover Discovery TD5 Front Recovery Points. As the name suggests these are for off-road recovery from the front. If you have found this web page you probably already know the problem. No one (at the time of typing) makes front recovery points for the series 2 Discovery.
What else does the same job?
There are several solutions if you are prepared to completely replace the bumper or replace the lower section of bumper but both affect the appearance. I like off-roading but I like my car to look fairly respectable the rest of the time.
Plans
I managed to take the necessary measurements and draw up some plans. Luckily they fitted perfectly first time.
 |
| These have not been tested except in use and you use the designs at your own risk. |
The brackets angle down but when you look at the plans the bolt holes are in line with the metal edges. This is correct. It is a right angle and the bolt holes are in a straight line. Yet when fitted the brackets angles downwards and protrude at about the same place as the existing lashing point. This is because the bolt holes on the end of the chassis where these are mounted are not upright. The bolt holes are already angled with the top one being further forward than the bottom one, producing the necessary angle when the bracket is fitted.
You only need the 11mm hole and the 11mm slot. The two 9mm holes shown on the plans were just in case I wanted to mount any underside protection from the brackets.
Materials:
8mm thick mild steel
Zinc coated after manufacture
Costs:
I had mine produced by a local Land Rover enthusiast garage, Gratech , who in turn had a local metal fabricator make up the pair.
Even with two lots of mark up involved I was only quoted £25 plus VAT each (Total £60 the pair in Feb.2010)
Installation
From under the vehicle, remove the underside cover to get at the bumper mounting bolts. This cover may have to be cut slightly to be able to replace it neatly once the new brackets are in place.
Remove the existing lashing point on the side where it is fitted and fit the new recovery points using the original bolts.
The measurements were taken from my 2004 facelift Discovery 2. As far as I know they should also fit pre-facelift models but the position within the valence is unknown.
==
Update: 29/03/2017
These were being discussed in a forum at http://www.africaland.it/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=102649 I had to use Google Translate to understand the Italian conversations but it sounded like if enough people clubbed together they would manufacture some sets.
Here are some of the photo's from that forum which may be of use to others.
They made theirs with 10mm steel.
I have a rotary cutter now which would have been easier. At the time I cut it by hand.
Shows the cut to the underside cover to clear the towing eyes.
That picture shows that they fit on the inside of the chassis rails.
The person who took this photo used longer bolts but I did not need to do that. After I had removed the old lashing eye the bolts on my car were plenty long enough.
That's a good picture showing the bolts and that they are at an angle.
==
Update: 07 April 2017
Ian Dixon of http://www.rock-sliders.co.uk/ mentioned in a Facebook post that he could add them to their product range if there was enough interest.
Update: 10 March 2020
Ratel-X industries, have made some of these. See their Facebook page.
==
Saturday, 29 August 2009
Hornets attack wasps
I was surprised to see this. Hornets attacking wasps. Although I only have a picture of one, there were several pairs in the fray.
Unfortunately it was fairly fast moving and I didn't get a very good angle. If you look carefully you can see the wasps head and antennae under the hornet.
==
Unfortunately it was fairly fast moving and I didn't get a very good angle. If you look carefully you can see the wasps head and antennae under the hornet.
==
Sunday, 28 June 2009
Rear Storage Bin
I have no need for the 7 seats in the Discovery 2 but I would like to carry a few bits and pieces and spares neatly in the back. I have therefore replaced one of the rear seats with a storage pocket.
The picture is of the left hand pocket but I installed the right hand (UK driver side) bin.
The above shows the list of spare parts required for the right hand pocket.
When it came to fitting I changed some of the bits to make it easier and also stronger. Rather than take all the plastic panels out and fit everything with hidden screws and spring clips from behind, I positioned bits of timber inside and screwed in to those. From the outside the fitting looks similar but it was easier to do and the end result has a stronger panel behind giving the hinges a stronger backing.
I have deliberately left the seat belt hidden behind the plastic quarter panels, just in case I need to re-instate it. It was a fairly easy job to unbolt the end near the rear door and push it through the panel at the top. I've tied it all back inside to stop it knocking on anything. I've also put a black plastic cover loosely held inside by cable ties so you cannot see the belt.
==
Update: March 2017
I have removed the other seat.
The picture is of the left hand pocket but I installed the right hand (UK driver side) bin.
The above shows the list of spare parts required for the right hand pocket.
When it came to fitting I changed some of the bits to make it easier and also stronger. Rather than take all the plastic panels out and fit everything with hidden screws and spring clips from behind, I positioned bits of timber inside and screwed in to those. From the outside the fitting looks similar but it was easier to do and the end result has a stronger panel behind giving the hinges a stronger backing.
I have deliberately left the seat belt hidden behind the plastic quarter panels, just in case I need to re-instate it. It was a fairly easy job to unbolt the end near the rear door and push it through the panel at the top. I've tied it all back inside to stop it knocking on anything. I've also put a black plastic cover loosely held inside by cable ties so you cannot see the belt.
==
Update: March 2017
I have removed the other seat.
Saturday, 13 June 2009
Discovery 2 parking sensor controls
That didn't last long. I am not keen on the parking sensors coming on automatically whenever I select reverse gear.
By removing a single green/brown wire, the sensors can still be activated by the button on the dash but selecting reverse gear does not activate them.
==
How I Did This
The reversing sensor control unit is behind the trim in the rear left hand corner.
It can be easily reached by removing the small grill by the back door catch.
The buzzer is separate connected using a pink and brown wire. This goes back to the larger beige
connector on the unit.
The smaller black connector on the unit is connected to the sensors on the rear bumper.
The other larger beige connector has the power and connections to the switches.
To disconnect the reverse gear switch remove the Green with brown stripe wire.
Be careful, there is a bright green with yellow stripe which looks similar but is the live feed.
The Green/Brown wire goes to 12V when the gear lever selects reverse gear.
To remove the wire:
1. unplug the larger connector and bring it through the trim panel.
2. Cut the cable tie
3. Carefully prise apart the top part of the casing and fold back the small flap of plastic
4. With a small screwdriver or two pull apart the outer casing of the connector and push the
white part out one end. Only one end is open so it is obvious which way it can slide.
Pushing a screwdriver in the other end while pulling both sides apart is fiddly but easy enough.
5. With the white part out use a tiny watchmakers screwdriver to push the metal catch on the
socket connected to the Green/Brown wire while gently pulling on that wire. It will come out
easily if you have pushed the tiny metal catch far enough in.
6. With the socket out, wrap it in insulation tape making sure that tape will not come off.
The wire goes live when on so you don't want an accidental short to the chassis in the future.
I like to double wrap it and secure it back to the other wire so it does not dangle.
7. Reassemble in reverse of the above. You'll need a new cable tie to finish the job.
Larger connector wiring:
Side One pins
None
Pink - to buzzer
None
None
Red/Grey
None
None
None
Side two pins
Black - probably ground to the chassis (always has zero resistance and zero volts when tested)
None
Green/Brown - To reverse gear lever switch
None
Grey
None
Brown - to buzzer
Green/Yellow - 12V when ignition on
==
By removing a single green/brown wire, the sensors can still be activated by the button on the dash but selecting reverse gear does not activate them.
==
How I Did This
The reversing sensor control unit is behind the trim in the rear left hand corner.
It can be easily reached by removing the small grill by the back door catch.
The buzzer is separate connected using a pink and brown wire. This goes back to the larger beige
connector on the unit.
The smaller black connector on the unit is connected to the sensors on the rear bumper.
The other larger beige connector has the power and connections to the switches.
To disconnect the reverse gear switch remove the Green with brown stripe wire.
Be careful, there is a bright green with yellow stripe which looks similar but is the live feed.
The Green/Brown wire goes to 12V when the gear lever selects reverse gear.
To remove the wire:
1. unplug the larger connector and bring it through the trim panel.
2. Cut the cable tie
3. Carefully prise apart the top part of the casing and fold back the small flap of plastic
4. With a small screwdriver or two pull apart the outer casing of the connector and push the
white part out one end. Only one end is open so it is obvious which way it can slide.
Pushing a screwdriver in the other end while pulling both sides apart is fiddly but easy enough.
5. With the white part out use a tiny watchmakers screwdriver to push the metal catch on the
socket connected to the Green/Brown wire while gently pulling on that wire. It will come out
easily if you have pushed the tiny metal catch far enough in.
6. With the socket out, wrap it in insulation tape making sure that tape will not come off.
The wire goes live when on so you don't want an accidental short to the chassis in the future.
I like to double wrap it and secure it back to the other wire so it does not dangle.
7. Reassemble in reverse of the above. You'll need a new cable tie to finish the job.
Larger connector wiring:
Side One pins
None
Pink - to buzzer
None
None
Red/Grey
None
None
None
Side two pins
Black - probably ground to the chassis (always has zero resistance and zero volts when tested)
None
Green/Brown - To reverse gear lever switch
None
Grey
None
Brown - to buzzer
Green/Yellow - 12V when ignition on
==
Subscribe to:
Posts
(
Atom
)