I've used magnets to hold some of the tools on to my tool boards in the workshop. They have a tendency to slide about when removing tools.
To keep the magnets where I want them, I've designed and printed some simple holders that fit the Bott tool boards that I use.
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My Christmas present to myself is a HeyGears Ultracraft Reflex 3D printer.
The Cure unit arrived first, then the resin and just before the New Year, the printer arrived.
Setup and getting it going was fairly easy. It had 8 setup screens to go through. It included levelling and updating the firmware, among a few other things.
My test print was a scaled down Millennium Falcon model. I printed it horizontal, for speed, but that meant there were a lot of support marks on the underside. The top surface showed the quality that the printer could produce.
The post processing was not as fiddly or time consuming as I had expected. I used my existing ultrasonic cleaner to wash off the uncured resin. I'd seen a tip on a YouTube video to put the isopropyl alcohol (IPA) in a plastic bag. This avoids the chance that the IPA could degrade any rubber seals that may be in the unit and it also reduces the amount of IPA that needs to be used.
I filled the ultrasonic cleaner with water and put the bag of IPA with the print inside, into the water. I ran the unit for 10 minutes, which did a good job.
I removed the supports and quickly dried the print before putting it in the curing unit for 20 mins.
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Since the completion of The Shed, most of the jobs I have done in the new workshop have been for The Shed. Today was no exception, I added the ducting for extractor fans.
I didn't have any mechanical extraction in the old shed because it was draughty enough not to need any extra ventilation. The new workshop is pretty much sealed with only the deliberate window vents providing a trickle of air. This was OK in the summer where I had the doors and windows open but as soon as I've started working with those closed it was obvious I needed to add an extractor fan.
This was always planned and a section of wall had extra noggins in to form the duct and power was in place ready for an extractor fan.
What was causing me to think, was the vent on the outside. As The Shed is clad in feather edge, the boards overlap and are at an angle. Any of the more attractive cowls would not fit over the boards. This limits the design to a thin rectangle. I didn't like any of the off the shelf options.
After experimenting with a few things I ended up with using a length of guttering. It appears to work and blends in to the point of being almost unnoticed.
Behind the gutter cowl is a rectangular duct joint incorporating a backdraught flap. I added a few holes for better sideways airflow. Inside I've covered the duct with a bit of fly screen mesh.
The duct size is a bit small for the size of fan I've fitted but it's doing the job I need.
While I was at it, I've used the same design for a dedicated duct for my worktop spray booth.
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I'm very pleased with the roller tool cabinets I bought however, I have a breaker bar and torque wrench that are too long to fit inside. I didn't want a larger cabinet taking up more space than necessary and originally, I was going to hang the oversize tools on the wall, but the holes in the cab to mount the handle at either end gave me an idea.
I've made a tool rail to fit using the same mounting points as the handles.
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Also known as a Canvas Wedge or Painter's Corner. They are used to keep the frame pushed apart to hold the canvas taught. There should be 8 of them, two for each corner.
The edge of the frame is made up of 4 stretcher bars with joints in each corner.
Looking from the inside, each corner will have grooves cut into it at an angle. They will be offset on each stretcher bar.
Use a hammer to tap on the stretcher bars from the inside. On smaller frames this can be in the middle to evenly do each edge, on larger frames it may be necessary to tap nearer the corners and use the same force at either end of the same stretcher bar.
Tap on the inside of each edge, so that the canvas is stretched evenly. The amount of movement is likely to be less than a millimetre and may not even be visible at the corners, but will be enough to tighten the canvas.
Be careful with existing paintings not to overstretch the work and crack the paint.
The wedges are to hold the joint slightly apart.
They can be fitted parallel to the frame. My preference is to align them pointing towards the centre of the canvas. In either case, the longer edge is closest to the outside of the frame. I find the later method easier to get the hammer in to hit the ends of each wedge as they do not overlap.
Whichever position they are fitted, simply tap them in. The wedge shape will stop the corner closing up and can be used to fractionally force the frame apart to get that last bit of stretch needed to make the canvas evenly taught. The wedge in one stretcher is pushing against the timber of the other stretcher.
Put one wedge in the ends of each stretcher, so each corner will have two wedges.
Once fitted the wedges should remain there. If the canvas sags, the frame can be tapped out a bit and the wedges tapped in again to hold it in place.
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There are a number of articles by others that go into more detail. I found the following clear and comprehensive:
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