Wednesday, 22 March 2017

Fix sunroof drain

With the headlining removed I can hopefully see where the water is getting in. I have already posted a part 1 and a part 2 about removing the headlining.

By pouring water in the sunroof gully I already knew water was escaping the right hand drivers side drain.


Three out of the four drains feel secure...


I think it is obvious from the photo that the one above the drivers head is not right!


As you can see in the pictures it has snapped off.

I did attempt to get the whole plastic corner out to do a better repair but as far as I can tell the corner is inserted from the outside and it would require a lot of the sunroof to be dismantled to be able to extract it.

I decided I could do a good repair without removing it.



I cleaned off the previous sealant and as much of the original glue that I could. I used isopropyl alcohol to make sure the surfaces were clean and once that had evaporated I stuffed as much adhesive as I could in and over the joint. I'm using a two part epoxy.




To join the end back on I've fashioned a thin lip to align the pipe and hold it in place. The lip has a larger surface area for the adhesive. I've just used the thinnest plastic packaging I could find and super (CA) glued it inside the still inserted pipe joiner. I used a bradawl to push the inside tightly up against the pipe.


Once the collar was set in place, I used more super glue round that and on the rubber to put it back where it belonged.

The glue is deliberately the type that has some body and will fill small gaps.

I just held it in place by hand until I was sure it could take its own weight. I'm well practiced at avoiding sticking my fingers to things. If in doubt I wear some thin gloves or hold it with a tissue.


I'll leave it to dry a few days.


To avoid the glue getting wet too soon I have temporarily sealed up the sunroof.



I'm not sure if it will help or perhaps make it worse but I have taped the drain pipes to the ceiling so they are, hopefully, putting less strain on the joint.


I've also put windscreen sealant round all of the drain corners covering the rubber pipe joint. I hope that will add some additional strength. I will do the same to the repaired one once the adhesives have had a good chance to fully cure.

I think the windscreen sealant is a better choice than a silicone sealant. The specialist windscreen sealants are better adhesives. They hold car windows in place.

I'm pleased with the drain repair, unfortunately I already know that the drain was not the only place water is getting in.



I have not had a chance to track down where the remaining drips are getting in but I suspect one of the left hand, passenger side, roof bar bolts. I need another day to test that theory.

Tuesday, 21 March 2017

Discovery 2 Interior Upper Reference Photos

While I had the trim removed I took some pictures to show the cable runs that are normally out of sight above the headlining.



































Remove headlining - Part 2

This continues on from my earlier notes about removing the rear quarter panel interior trim. I'm removing the headlining to get to the leak somewhere in the roof.

I wasn't sure how to remove the B pillar trim so I started the day with that job.



I've got a couple of sets of trim removal tools that come in very handy.


To get to the clips that hold the trim on it is necessary to pull off a short section of the door seal on either side.


The clips go round the metal lip and can be easily pried off with a small screwdriver or better still the back of a blade.



The only other clip is at the top and is just pulled straight off.
The panel can remain attached to the seat belt.



It's worth taking a look at how the top seat belt bracket adjuster works. Very simple post pushed down by a plastic arm. It has to be aligned when putting it back but the round hole fits over the bolt to make it fairly easy.





The A Pillars pull off fairly easily. Each just has 3 clips.


The speaker connector took a little more time because I had to remove the foam covering before I could work out how the connector lock worked. It's just a dot of plastic in a hole, so once I knew where it was I could use a pen knife to lift the plastic and hook out the connector in one move. The one on the other side of the car was easy.


Just three machine screws for each sun visor.




A screw in each sun visor hook back then pull it out of the square hole. It took a bit of wiggling.


The upper plastic trim that spans the front windscreen is held up with 5 obvious screws either side. It will then drop under its own weight.


The connectors can be removed from their switches. The only connector that could be plugged in to the wrong place was already labelled on mine so I didn't have to worry about where they plugged back in. Plus I have all these photos.





The edge trim round the sun roofs are easy to pull off. Note they are pushed on to the metal of the sun roof cassette.






It took me a while to gain access to the screw in the middle of the headlining. I had to remove the centre light to get my fingers above to push the switch out. The screw is immediately above that switch.


I unclipped the alarm sensor and pushed that through the hole it came from.


Getting towards the end now. Remove all the grab handles.


Unclip the lens from the rear interior light and remove the two nuts that support it and the headlining.


Lastly remove the two trim clips from above the rear load space door.


The headlining is now free to drop. It does not weigh very much so is easy to move about.


It is necessary to lower the rear seats and remove the load space cover but with those out of the way there is plenty of space to get the headlining out across the diagonal of the rear load space door.




That's it. The cavernous space is bare topped.