Wednesday, 19 September 2018

Land Rover Misfuel reset tool

Land Rover have included a flap in to the fuel filler pipe of many of their models to reduce the chance of accidentally putting the wrong fuel in the car.

It is activated by the wrong size nozzle from a fuel pump or sometimes from the spout of a fuel can.


The first time I filled up 'Baby', our 2011 Discovery 4, I could see the yellow flap in the pipe and it was very slow going getting and Diesel in.

I now know that is the misfuel device having been activated at some previous time.


Having looked it up in the manual, there should have been a reset tool somewhere in the car. I've looked and I cannot find it.


They are fairly low cost and I've ordered a replacement from ebay. However, looking at the photographs, I thought I could easily make one.


10 minutes in the shed, with all measurements by eye, and I have a tool that just about worked first time. 2 minutes minor adjustment and the tool works perfectly. It does not have the stop to help align the prongs but knowing what I was looking for it was easy to align by sight.


It's made from 1.2mm mild steel, cut to 25mm wide, about 250mm long, bent in a 'U' shape at one end with two upward facing prongs about 10mm apart just short of that end.


Having made this, I think it would also be easy to make one, even quicker, out of 15mm copper water pipe with an end crushed flat and the prongs cut to size and bent up from that. I would need to be careful not to drop that in the tank though, so the bent flat steel version is my preference.

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Improvements:

The disadvantage of the one I have made is that diagonally the tool could, just about, be accidentally dropped down the filler tube in to the tank.

If I was making it again, I would make it a couple of millimetres wider so it would not be able to be dropped through the fuel spout at any angle.

Diesel fuel nozzles have a diameter of 23.8mm. The tool needs to be wider than that to avoid it being able to be dropped in to the tank but must be less than 40mm which is the width of the outer tube thread size. I'd recommend about 28mm to 30mm being the optimal width of steel to use before bending.

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Tuesday, 18 September 2018

New car

Our newer car arrived yesterday. A Land Rover Discovery 4. This replaces Junior so has been given the name Baby.


It's very big. It's an automatic. All things I will need to get used to.

It's got so many buttons inside that I am having to read the manual to find out what some of them do!

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Sunday, 16 September 2018

Steampunk at the Museum of Power

On, what has turned out to be, our annual Steampunk outing, we went to the Museum of Power in Langford, near Maldon in Essex. That's just 10 minute drive for us, which is why we like to go there.









It's a great place and the Steampunk style fits in very nicely with the steam pump engine :-)

We met some great people who keep the engines running and Shelley knew one of them. Yet again, a small world.





As usual, Shelley got excited about the miniature steam train and took two rides.






We had a guided tour of the workings 6 meters under the engine.

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Canon DSLR hot-shoe cover

I'm not sure there's a good reason for having a cover on the flash hot-shoe. I've had cameras for years without any form of cover and they always work when I attach a flash.

There's just something about the exposed contacts, getting dirty, that makes me want to cover them.
Perhaps they just look tidier.


Small plastic covers are available in multi-packs on e-bay for next to nothing. The trouble is that my Canon 750D has a micro-switch that stops the internal flash popping up, if something is in the hot-shoe slot.


The micro-switch is only on one side so my simple solution is to remove enough of the plastic on that side to prevent the switch being depressed.


It's not as secure as having both sides held but it stays in place just fine and the built in flash pops up, when I want it.

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A-S-Fit Standard tripod camera mount

“Cameras can be quickly mounted on any tripod”


Overview
Most tripods and other camera supports now use some form of quick release mounting system. There are a few common versions available, mainly proprietary systems. Each manufacturer having their own system that is not compatible with other vendors’ equipment.


Over the last few decades many photographers have migrated to using a tripod head mounting plate that conforms roughly to a design produced under the brand Arca-Swiss. This gives some level of inter-operability between tripods from different suppliers.

It is commonly acknowledged that the Arca-Swiss brand has produced exquisitely engineered tripod heads that photographers have aspired to. That has led, over the years, to a number of similar designs being produced at a lower price point referred to as Arca-Swiss style or inspired by.


The ‘inspired by’ versions do not conform to any standard and have evolved to a loose format of their own. Unfortunately, with no formal document to work to, the various manufacturers products are not always as compatible as consumers would like.

In an attempt to overcome the differences between the various products I have attempted to produce a standard based on a small selection of the Arca-Swiss style products that are on the market. The hope is that future products based on this standard would be able to inter-operate with each other. Any plate will fit any other receiver.


This is not an attempt to make those products compatible with the Arca-Swiss branded products.

The proposed standard can be downloaded from here with associated drawings and models.



Friday, 7 September 2018

Fix Bob's pulley

Bob is the name of our ride on mower. He's a Hayter Heritage RS102H. We've had him nearly 14 years so he's getting on a bit and I've done a few services and repairs on him over the years.

Last weekend, Shelley brought him back in, from mowing the long bits in the paddocks, noting that the cutter belt had come off.


When I took off the cover to put the belt back I found that the idler pulley had separated from it's shaft and upon closer inspection the bearing had disintegrated.

The Hayter RS102H is long since obsolete and no one, that I could find, stocks spare parts. Luckily it is the same running gear as various AL-KO models, like the AL-KO T18-102HD Powerline. Even easier the numeric portion of most of the part numbers are the same and I have parts diagrams for both.



I was able to get the pulley, a spacer, a replacement tension spring and even the plastic cover that had been worn through by the pulley. I've raised the new cover up with thick washers in the hope that's enough to stop it wearing out.


The pulley was an easy swap and I'm getting better at putting the belt back on.



In the past I have tried to get the belt over the spring loaded idler pulley but I found it much easier to put it on the sprung idler first and then lever the belt on to the static deck pulley. I released the tension as much as I could by putting a very long screwdriver in the coils of the tension spring and levering it with that.



All back together and up and running.

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Thursday, 6 September 2018

RHS Wisley

A few photos from the day trip to the flower show at Wisley.











Shelley with her Canon EOS M50 and 18-200mm zoom



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Camera:
Canon EOS 750D
Sigma 18-200mm lens
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