Weber adapter for a Rover V8 manifold

The SU carbs that came with the engine, destined for the hot rod, have seen better days. This led to the idea of replacing those with a Weber carb.

This is a common adaptation and already modified manifolds for the Rover V8 3500 are readily available, at a cost. However, Dean picked up a damaged manifold from an SD1 at a bargain price and I have a mill :-)

The carburettor is a Weber 38 DGAS. Dual 38mm bore with synchronous operation. It has an automatic choke, but most likely we will replace that with an electric one. The Weber carbs, spare parts and upgrade components are all readily available in the UK, making this a good choice.

I'd already managed to hold the manifold on the mill table to clean up the cut off top. I've now milled an adapter plate.

I'm using M8x40mm set screws as mounting studs. On top of that goes the thermal insulating spacer and then the carb.

The adapter will be attached by someone more experienced with welding aluminium.

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Hydraulic leaf spring spreader

We are now on the third version of adaptations to use my pre-existing 10-ton body repair press as a leaf spring spreader for use on Dean's emerging hot rot.

This latest version has an adjustable length. This solves the issue that none of the combinations of tubes supplied with the 10-ton strong arm were quite the right length to get the spring eye's where we needed them. Prior to this, full extension was not quite enough but we could not get the next longer tubes in between the eyes when under no compression!

I turned up an adapter to slide into the strong arm tubes. This is simply to keep the M24 threaded bar central. A nut at the interface and flat faces for a spanner on the threaded bar allow the length to be adjusted, even under load.

Worked but not ideal

Our first attempt used a combination of whatever we had to hand to deal with the reverse eye on the spring. This did not always work out. The picture shows the lifting shackles overhanging the holes that we need to get the spring mounting shackles into!

The second version used some plates to push against. They avoided anything obstructing access to the spring shackle mountings. Although these brackets worked, and still do, the plates and the M12 bolts bent significantly.

The current version works well and it is relatively easy to fit and remove the spring. If I make another version it will be to strengthen the brackets that are used to push on the spring eyes.

Scientifically tested :-)

To get the tension right, the spring has been on and off the car a few times. Using the best measuring techniques we have to hand, it now feels about right :-)

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