It's not often I have a need for a specific knot or in this case a loop. I invariably have to look up instructions when I do.
There are lots of instructions on the internet for splicing a loop in 3 strand rope, however, I found them all lacking in what a novice might need to know. I found these animated instructions helpful, but they did not tell me everything.
https://www.animatedknots.com/eye-splice-knot
I'm typing this after having only made four of these loops in my whole life. I find that typing instructions for beginners is often best done by a novice because, at this point I can still remember what confused me and what information I needed that the instructions did not give.
The large eyes shown in the photos is made from 25mm Polyhemp. A rot resistant cord made to resemble old hemp or jute rope. I practiced using 6mm jute cord. The larger rope was much easier to work with. The strands being more visible and easier to thread through. For the smaller cord an embroidery or knitting needle would have been handy to separate the strands.
Tools:
I used, scissors a knife and electrical tape.
Start - lengths:
My preferred solution to get the size of the eye and enough loose length to form the splice is to count 16 tops of the twists along the same edge and wrap a bit of tape round the rope.
Count a further 12 tops and wrap another bit of tape round.
Bringing the the two bits of tape together indicates the size of the eye. Obviously, this can be adjusted to any specific need.
Unravel a short length at the end of the rope and wrap tape separately round the ends of each of the three strands. I found the strands much easier to work with this way.
Unravel the remaining length up to the first loop of tape forming the eye.
The first tuck:
This is where the descriptions in the instructions I read, was inadequate. I know why, because it is very difficult to describe, but is surprisingly easy to understand when I had the rope in my hand.
I lay the separate section out so that the three strands naturally lay with an upper strand away from me, a middle strand and a lower stand closest to me.
Grabbing just before and just after the second bit of tape forming the end of the eye, I twist to open up the three strands. When doing this, it is fairly easy to identify an upper, middle and lower strand. I kept those in your mind while carrying out the next bit.
Taking the middle free strand, tuck it under the middle strand of the main section of rope, just after the second bit of tape. The strand goes away from you.
Taking the upper free strand, tuck it under the upper strand of the main section of rope, just after the second bit of tape. The upper tuck is behind the middle tuck and the strand goes away from you.
The lower stand gets a bit confusing. The tuck is under the rope. Taking the lower free strand, tuck it under the lower strand of the main section of rope, but it comes towards you, out of the surface you are working on.
I found it easier to turn the rope over for the lower strand, in which case, the tuck is again, away from you.
The remaining tucks:
This is another place that I found other instructions lacking for beginners. Again, this is because it is easier to understand with the rope in your hands.
With the rope back the original way, take the top strand, bring it over the middle strand of the main rope and through under the next top strand of the main rope. In all cases this is the main rope strands. The loose ends do not go directly over the other loose ends. The loose ends go over and through the main rope strands.
For each set of three tucks the end of the strands are going in the opposite direction, either away from you or towards you. It's obvious when you have the rope in front of you. Flipping the rope over for the lower strand, means they all go the same way in relation to yourself at each stage.
Repeat with the middle and lower strands. It does not really matter which order each group of the three tucks is carried out in. They all go over one strand of the main rope and tucked through another.
All three must be completed before starting the next three. I tried to keep the twist of the strands intact.
According to other sources, a minimum of 5 sets of tucks is required for a strong splice. Apparently with modern synthetic rope, 7 tucks is required.
Finishing off:
I pulled the loose strands tight and generally evened out the splice. I then removed all my temporary tape.
I do not know how to make the frayed ends tidy. My solution was to put a simple whip round the splice to avoid the frayed ends being able to open. I understand there is a way to tuck the frayed ends into the splice. I have not researched how to do that.
Hopefully these instructions add a little bit to the numerous other sources of information available.
I enjoyed making the eye splice.
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